Turkey Traveller

Bergama (Pergamon)

2011-08-17T20:40:00.001+01:00

The modern town of Bergama is not particularly picturesque town and I certainly wouldn't recommend it as a destination from which too base your holiday, however it has a fascinating history making it perfect for a day trip.

The older part of the town has some old style town houses and its not overly touristy so can be a nice place to observe the Turks going around their day to day business. Attractions at Bergama include two large archaeological sites, a museum of archaeology and a gargantuan brick temple earmarked as the throne of the devil in the coming Armageddon.

Museum of Archaeology in Bergama

The museum at Bergama is well established having been built on the orders of Fevzi Çakmak in 1932. Recently it has been refurbished to a high standard. The exhibits are mostly from nearby Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman remains. Outside the front of the museum there is a collection of sculptures and decoratively carved Islamic tombs and grave markers. Inside there are more sculptures many of which have had their heads removed and apparently stolen by western collectors. By far the most interesting exhibit for me was about the altar of Zeus of which there is a reconstruction and a collection of photographs and drawings. The original was removed by German Archaeologists in 1878 and shipped piece by piece to Berlin where it was re-built in the museum of Berlin, an act of cultural theft and vandalism that still shocks over one hundred years later. The original location of the alter is visible on the Acropolis. The museum also contains a nice collection of 19^th century Bergama kilim rugs. The local villages still produce high quality handmade kilim rugs with patterns and designs that are specific to Bergama.

The Acropolis

The Acropolis was for me the most impressive of the two sizeable archaeological sites and can be reached by a brand spanking new cable car. It sits on top of hill overlooking the town and a recently completed dam. Once you have ignored your way past the standard ramshackle collection of touting gift shop owners you can enter the sizeable remains of the old citadel which includes temples, alters, monumental tombs, theatres and military buildings, not to mention some beautiful and far reaching views. Highlights were the partially restored temple of Trajan and the theatre of Pergamon, which is gigantic, apparently accommodating 10,000 people in one go, it is also jaw droppingly steep! A visit to the Acropolis makes for a pleasant and fascinating afternoon stroll which took us about two hours.

Asklepion

On the other side of Bergama are the remains of Asklepion an ancient medical centre, in its time one of the most important in the world. It was constructed in the 4^th century BC and as well as the temple of Asklepion it it has an interesting history in medical research including early experiments with water therapy, music therapy and dream analysis.

Red Basilica 'the throne of the devil'

The enormous Red Basilica (Kizil Avlu) can be found in the centre of Bergama, and is hard to miss as it is by far the largest building in town.

The basilica has a certain eerie quality, partly because its a giant derelict building in the centre of town and partly because its referenced in the Bible as being one of the seven churches of the apocalypse, and is referred to by St John in the book of Revelations as 'the throne of the devil'.

Rev 2:12 And to the angel of the church in Pergamos write; These things saith he which hath the sharp sword with two edges

Rev 2:13 I know thy works, and where thou dwellest, even where Satan's throne is: and thou holdest fast my name, and hast not denied my faith, even in those days wherein Antipas was my faithful martyr, who was slain among you, where Satan dwelleth.

Purportedly built around the early 2^nd century the temple was dedicated to the pagan Egyptian god Serapis. Like many older religious buildings it was recycled firstly as a church by the Byzantium empire in the 4^th century, and latterly as a mosque. The building was badly damaged by Arab raiders in 716 AD and a smaller church was built inside. The current day mosque is situated in a tower to one side.

Getting there

Most day trippers come by bus and organised tours. If your coming by car Bergama is easily found on the main road between Ayvalik and Izmir. The two archaeological sites have designated parking, but parking near the museum and around town is tight and you will normally arrive back at your car to find a parking attendant hovering, but the parking charge is reasonable so not to worry.

Bounjour Pansiyon - Ayvalik

2011-05-19T09:58:00.000+01:00

The Bonjour Pansiyon in Ayvalik is an interesting bed & breakfast situated in a restored house that

Formerly belonged to the French ambassador to the Sultan. The house is deceptively big and somewhere in this building there are 12 rooms.

Restored to a high standard with lots of interesting original features and added decorative items gives the place a romantic old world feel. The ceilings have also been decorated with some authentic looking frescos. The rooms are basic as you would expect, nicely decorated and include air con/heating. There are shared bathroom facilities throughout the pansiyon.

Breakfast is served in a walled courtyard and includes, bread, local olives, cheese, eggs, Turkish fried bread, jams, honey and hot and cold beverages.

We paid 45 YTL per person per night including breakfast, the pansiyon is located about 5 minutes walk from the otogar (bus station) at this address Fevzi Cakmak Cad. Cesme Sok. No:5,

Turkish Coffee

2011-05-12T14:06:00.000+01:00

Turkish coffee (Türk kahvesi) is extremely strong, dark and bitter. Prepared using finely ground roasted coffee beans that have been slowly heated to boiling in a small pot called a cezva. Turkish coffee is always served black and the sugar is added whilst the coffee is being boiled. If you want it with sugar order şekerli without sugar is sade or plain.

Turkish coffee is sipped slowly and is so thick that the bottom of the cup is normally an undrinkable dark sludge, if your lucky enough to be drinking with a group of Turkish women they will often turn the cup upside down on the saucer allow the sludge to run down the sides and dry, ten minutes later the will read your coffee fortunes (Falına Bakmak) predicting your future by the patterns and pictures left in the dried coffee.

If you want more European/Western style coffee order Nescafe, recently you will also find European style coffee shops selling caffe latte and cappuccino's.

Turkey Travel Guide Video

2011-04-03T12:41:00.000+01:00

Gemiler Island (St. Nicholas Island)

2011-03-14T00:47:00.000Z

Gemiler Island also known as the Island of St Nicholas is located on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey between Olu Deniz and Fethiye. The Island is only small approximately 1000m long by 400m wide but that small area is littered with the remains of an historic monastic retreat containing among other things the original resting place of St Nicholas. The Island offers the perfect opportunity to take a break from sunbathing and spend an hour exploring the medieval remains, that for centuries attracted pilgrims from all over Christendom. On the island are the remains of four churches, related religious buildings, Byzantine dwellings, harbour, cistern, stone tombs, graveyard and ceremonial passageway. The views from the top of the Island across the Mediterranean and back inland are also quite stunning and well worth the walk.

The Tomb of St Nicholas
St Nicholas better known now days as Father Christmas or Santa Claus was the Bishop of Myra, which is just a few miles from from Gemiler Island in modern day Demre.

Archaeologists believe that after his death on the 6^th of December 343AD he was buried on Gemiler island. The Island became an attraction for local pilgrimages and pilgrims from afar who would stop off on their way to Jerusalem to visit the shrine. Paying homage at the basilica that housed St Nicholas's remains, where you can still see faded frescos depicting scenes from his life. Around 650AD the remains were removed to the safety of Myra after the island was repeatedly attacked by Arab pirates forcing the inhabitants to abandon the settlement in favour of nearby Kayakoy.

Later St Nicholas's remains were again removed by a special expedition in 1087 to the city of Bari in Italy making the Bishop quite well travelled for someone who had been deceased for over 700 years. The church that housed the remains is referred to as the third church and is on the highest part of the Island at the top of the ceremonial passage. The remains were believed to have been kept below the alter.

Getting there

Most vistors discover St Nicholas Island either on one of the many Island hoping tours that come from Fethiye and Olu Deniz or by walking down from Kayakoy and geting a boat across the half mile stretch of water from Gemiler bay.

Around Gemiler
Faralya

Gocek

Gocek Island

Hisaronu

Kabak valley

Kayakoy Ghost Village

Ottoman Calligraphy

2011-02-20T17:40:00.000Z

This is a sponsored post in courtesy of The Pen Company

Ottoman calligraphy began its life when the Turks migrated from Central Asia towards Asia Minor coming into contact with Islam along the way, they abandoned the traditional Uyghur text and adopted a hybrid written language based on Persian and Arabic tradition. In Islamic theology the text of the Qur'an is considered sacred as it is the word of Allah himself as revealed to the prophet Muhammed. This combined with the fact that artworks picturing human and animal forms are prohibited, meant that calligraphy as an art form flourished in the Ottoman empire with the most impressive works being undertaken in Istanbul. Istanbul became the capital of the Ottoman state in 1453 after Fatih Mehmet took the city effectively ending the Byzantium empire. Within Istanbul there are many fine examples of Turkish calligraphy one of the most famous being engraved in 1478 over the imperial gate at Topkapi palace by Ali Sofi a calligrapher in the reign on Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror.
Another famous and impressive example of Ottoman calligraphy is the Ottoman Tughra a highly stylised calligraphic signature that also acted as the Sultans seal and could be found on official state paperwork, coins and medals.

The Tughra varied from Sultan to Sultan and various examples can also be found carved above gates at Topkapi palace. Each Sultan would have a new Tughra designed by the court calligrapher at the start of his reign. The picture is the tughra of Sultan Mahmud II of the Ottoman empire, It reads Mahmud Khan son of Abdülhamid is forever victorious. Written in full it would appear like this:
محمود خان بن عبدالحميد مظفر دائماً
If you are interested to see a collection of beautiful examples of Ottoman calligraphy the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Istanbul is located near Emirgan park and houses a collection of calligraphic art. The collection spans a period of 500 years and offers a comprehensive view of Ottoman calligraphic art consisting of nearly four hundred separate pieces including manuscript Korans , prayer books, calligraphic panels, imperial documents, poetry books and calligraphic tools.

Visiting Hours
Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday: 10 am - 6 pm
Wednesday: 10 am - 9 pm
Closed on Mondays.
Contact
Sabancı Üniversitesi- Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi
Istinye Cad. No:22
Emirgan 34467- Istanbul
Tel : 0 212 277 22 00
Fax : 0 212 229 49 14
Web : http://muze.sabanciuniv.edu
E-mail address : muze@sabanciuniv.edu

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Hisaronu - Tourist hell or tourist heaven?

2011-01-11T19:38:00.001Z

Hisaronu is a holiday resort situated between Fethiye and Olu Deniz a few kilometres inland from the beautiful Mediterranean coast. It somewhat resembles a really cheap, tacky English seaside resort that's been uprooted and dumped on Turkey's Turquoise Rivera, expect bars and restaurants with English themes, menus, clientèle, lots of sport bars, tattoo parlours, karaoke, beer bellies, and more people wearing St Georges flags and union jack paraphernalia then I thought possible outside of some kind of surreal patriotic nightmare. Walking down the main street in the evening is not dissimilar to a visit to any British town centre on a Saturday night, there is a party atmosphere, neon lights, locals touting day trips and trying to beckon you into their establishment, bar after bar in which to wile away the evening relaxing to the thumping disco music. All in all for me it represents everything that is bad about mass tourism, and certainly isn't a destination to consider if you want to experience Turkish culture, in fact the idea that someone would base their opinion of Turkey on the back of a visit to Hisaronu appals me to the core.

However having said all that there is a thriving tourist industry here, I spoke with one hotelier who said they get so much return custom that they don't even advertise any more, and many of the tourists I spoke to came every year after year to stay in the same hotel. So it obviously appeals to someone out there. If you want to stay in a Mediterranean resort that offers you the chance to get smashed every day of your holiday, play bingo, sing karaoke, go clubbing, wake up to a full English every morning, watch the football on a big screen TV with English commentary and get a new tattoo then this could be the perfect holiday for you! Alternatively you could just go to Brighton for the weekend.

Beautiful places to stay and visit around Hisaronu

Faralya

Gocek

Gocek Island

Kabak valley

Kayakoy Ghost Village

Eskisehir Promo Video 2011

2011-01-08T14:49:00.001Z

More about Eskisehir:
Eskisehir

Sivrihisar

Yazilikaya Platform/Midas City

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Fire at historical Haydarpasa train station in Istanbul

2010-12-08T23:22:00.002Z

I heard yesterday that the beautiful and impressive train station at Haydarpaşa was damaged by fire at the end of last month. The Haydarpasa station is one of the most instantly recognisable landmarks in Istanbul and well loved by travellers, Turks and Istanbulites alike. The last most westerly train station in Asia where you can catch a train that travels the Hejaz Railway which terminates in Medina running via Syria and Jordan before arriving in Saudia Arabia. The Haydarpasa terminal sits on the shoreline built on reclaimed land overlooking the Bosphorus. It is a terrible shame for Istanbul and I hope the Turkish government will make every effort to return this splendid building to it's former glory.

The fire started on 28^th of November in the middle of the afternoon, the damage is mostly to the roof and the fourth floor. No people were injured.

Haydarpaşa Train station in better days:

Other articles about Istanbul

Basilica Cistern

Galata Tower, Istanbul

The Grand Bazaar

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Istanbul City Guide

Eminonu

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KayaKoy, A Greek ghost town in Turkey

2010-12-04T20:42:00.003Z

Kayaköy (stone village) A fascinating and eerie ghost town lies in the hills between Olu Deniz and Fethiye hastily abandoned when its Greek population was repatriated in 1923 after the Greco-Turkish war. Since then the town has been left bare to the elements and hundreds of intact but roofless houses sit empty staring across the valley.

For 8YTL you can wander the houses, shops, schools, windmills, tavernas and churches of this beautiful and serene place. Entering the houses is weird as you get a feeling of being somewhere you shouldn't be, as if someone had left their front door open and you

took it upon yourself to nose around. Even the goats that wander the village chewing on weeds have a tendency to look at you like an unwelcome interloper. The absence of sound is striking and even though we were virtually the only visitors we still spoke in hushed tones. Its like a community in stasis except without the people and its not much of a push of the imagination to picture the narrow streets bustling and the whole town pulsating with life.

Almost all of the houses have water cisterns at the side that hold between 4 & 8 tons of water. Most of the houses have no roofs, windows or doors as the roofs of straw and mud collapsed without regular maintenance and much of the wood was pilfered after local government allowed the removal of timbers after an earthquake in 1957. You can get a sense of the hierarchy as one side of the town has larger houses with garden and patio areas as well as wider streets. Some of the houses closer to the road and the valley that is occupied by Turkish households have been restored and are occupied there is also an opportunity to enter a house that has been fully intact since the Greeks left and has some furniture and artefacts.

One of the churches has an interesting bone depository where the bones of the dead are collected after apparently being buried in a temporary grave then exhumed washed with wine and stored in the bone depository, this of course only adds to the eeriness of the entire place particularly when combined with the constant screeching of the birds coming from the church.

History

Kayaköy know by the Greeks as Levissi was a town of Greek speaking Christians with a population of approximately 2000 in 1900. The town was established on the ancient Lycian site of Carmylessus after the origanal town of Levissi located on Gemiler Island was repeatedly attacked by pirates and raiders (around 700AD) forcing the population to flee inland the new Levissi prospered and grew until it was abandoned in 1923 at the end of the Greco-Turkish war. A population exchange was agreed between the Turkish and Greek governments affecting around 2 million people who were effectively de-naturalised then forcibly removed back to homelands many had not previously known.

Since the expulsion were based purely on peoples religious identity many of the 'Greeks' that were removed from Turkey were Turkish speaking Christians likewise some of the expelled 'Turks' were Greek speaking Muslims.

The Greeks of Levissi moved to a poor suburb of Athens living in refugee housing where they founded Nea Levissi. The Turks that came from Greece to live in Kayaköy were mostly farmers from Macadonia who were ill suited to the town and not used to the climate. They were also scared by rumours that the departing Greeks had poisioned the wells, they mostly migrated to other parts of Turkey in search of suitable farmable land leaving Kayaköy empty.

Greeks and Turks had lived side by side in Kayaköy for years with the Turks occupying the valley floor and farming for a living and the Greeks occupying the town on the hillside and were mostly professional tradesman.

Today in Kayakoy there remains about 500 hundred houses plus two Greek orthodox church's, school, shops, tavernas and 17^th century water fountain. The town is protected by the Turkish government and it is rumoured they intend to do a large-scale restoration. Kayaköy was adopted by UNESCO as a World Friendship and Peace Village.

Getting There

It is easy To find a day trip to Kayakoy from Olu Deniz, Fethiye or Hisaronu. It is easily accessible by car. There is also an hourly Dolmus that runs between Hisaronu and Kayakoy. We choose to stay there for a couple of nights as it is peaceful and uncrowned. There are a few pensions in the valley all of which are very reasonably priced. We stayed at the Selcuk pension which had some nice balcony rooms that overlooked the valley and deserted town.

Bone depository at Kataponagia church in Kayakoy

Present day inhabitants of Kayakoy

Kataponagia Greek Orthodox Church.

Old Kayakoy family portrait.

Kayakoy Wedding.
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Around Kayakoy

Faralya

Gocek

Gocek Island

Kabak valley

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Faralya Art House

2010-10-26T21:47:00.001+01:00

Faralya Art house is a beautiful pension nestled halfway up the Kabak valley with stunning views over the surrounding mountains and Mediterranean sea. Faralya Art House is the perfect place to spend time peacefully relaxing and soaking up the natural atmosphere. The rooms are basic and there is a shared bathroom, breakfast consists of bread, olives, local honey, cheese and eggs. Evening meals are available if you pay a little extra.
Faralya Art House is quite isolated and there is only a rough track from the main road to pension so its best not to take loads of luggage without making some kind of pick up arrangement first, as struggling halfway down a mountain in the blistering heat with a large suitcase can be a little tiresome (I speak from experience). Due to the isolated position of Faralya it is not suitable for everyone if you want clubs, restaurants and shopping then its probably not for you although these are all just a short Dolmus ride away. If you like trekking, swimming, deserted unspoilt beaches and natural surroundings then you will love it here.

Faralya

2010-10-26T21:41:00.001+01:00

Faralya a beautiful and isolated village nestled in stunning mountains that rise from the Mediterranean sea about 15km along the coast from Olu Deniz.

Faralya is a perfect destination to escape from the unpleasant over development and mass package tourism of Hisaronu, Ovacik and Olu Deniz. There are no large hotels or developments just small hotels, pensions and camp-sites.
Faralya is a beautiful place to relax in peaceful surroundings and a natural environment, great for hiking, deserted beaches, breath taking views, swimming and chilling out. It is also located on the Lycian way a famous trekking route that stretches from Fethiye to Antalya through the heart of the ancient Lycian culture that was voted one of the 'world's top ten walks' by the Times. There are no restaurants, pubs, nightclubs and just a few small grocery stores.

Until fairly recently Faralya was almost completely inaccessible from the outside and it is only over the last twenty years that they have completed a road from Olu Deniz to Faralya, before this if the local inhabitants wished to go to town it would be a nine hour trek down treacherous mountain paths. Apparently offended by the destruction of their idyllic isolation the local villagers stood at the side of the road and threw stones at the first Dolmus to travel the new road. Like many places in Turkey there is a delicate balance between the needs and traditions of the locals and the income provided by opening up their beautiful village to tourism albeit on quite a small scale.

Getting There
You can get to Faralya on a Dolmus ride from Olu Deniz via a twenty minute ride along a mountain road complete with hairpin bends and sheer cliff drops to the Mediterranean below which can be a little unsettling for those of a nervous disposition, try to bear in mind that the Dolmus driver probably drives this route every day, which might explain the hurry!

Whilst in Faralya we stayed At Faralya Art House.

In Faralya

Kabak Beach

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Eskisehir Heritage Heroes Video

2010-08-10T19:51:00.005+01:00

Eskisehir is a city I return to on a regular basis, and I consider it my home city in Turkey, over the last decade or so it has undergone a huge amount of change and positive development. Every time we return there is something new, improved or restored mostly due to the vision of one man Mayor Yılmaz Büyükerşen. This video by heritage heroes recognises his achievements in this role. The Mayor has said he wants Eskisehir to be a role model for other Anatolian Cities, something he has undoubtedly achieved, every time you tell another Turk you are from Eskisehir they immediately all most always comment on how beautiful and successful the city is …. ah Eskişehir cok guzel demi?

More about Eskisehir

Eskisehir

Sivrihisar

Yazilikaya Platform/Midas City

Kabak Valley/Beach

2010-08-09T20:16:00.004+01:00

Kabak beach is situated at the bottom of the beautiful Kabak Valley in Faralya, near Olu Deniz on the Turkish Mediterranean, almost completely untouched by commercial tourism partly due to its isolated position and partly because of a moratorium on development in this part of Mugla province. With its small encampment of beach bums, hippies, students and potheads it bears an uncanny and slightly comical resemblance to the beach in Leonardo DiCaprios film of the same name.

The beach is reachable from Kabak Koy (village) which is the last stop on the dolmus that runs between Olu Deniz and Faralya where you will find a café rather helpfully named last stop café, From the village you have to climb down a footpath to the beach it is approximately 600m and quite rough in places, there is a track that 4x4's go up and down and they will take you down for an extortionate 20 TL. The trek is well worth it because the views are stunning and at the bottom you will find the beautiful and relatively deserted kabak beach.

On the actual beach there are no facilities at all apart from a man under an umbrella selling chilled water. Just behind the beach in the valley are several camp-sites with food, drink and accommodation as required.

Gocek Island

2010-07-05T13:30:00.007+01:00

We loved the small secluded beach at Gocek Island(Göcek Ada) enclosed on both side by pine covered slopes and a beautiful clear blue water bay to swim in, it was very peaceful without the pumping dance music you often get at beach resorts like Antalya.

The beach is accessible by a service that runs from Gocek for 10 Turkish lira, the loungers are another 10 TL for the whole day. They have all the normal facilities ie: A bar, changing area, showers, toilets, light snakes and a camping area.

Gocek Ada website

Gocek

2010-07-05T13:07:00.007+01:00

Göcek is a small but pleasant port that resides between Dalaman and Fethiye. The main draw is tourism that revolves around the yachting industry and the marina is stuffed full of expensive yachts and power cruisers. As a result of the money this brings some of the local prices are slightly inflated, but its an nice opportunity to see how the other half lives. The shops and boutiques are of a higher quality than the normal tit-tat you would expect in a tourist destination and there is a good selection of restaurants offering both traditional Turkish dishes and western and continental meals. We particularly enjoyed eating at the Kebab Hospital Antep Sofrasi which served some of the best pide we have ever tasted at reasonable prices. Boat trips are available from the harbour including the 12 island boat tour.

Gocek has a reputation for being relaxed and is really just a nice place to chill out enjoy the food and wine and mooch around the marina drooling at the boats. It is also well known as a destination for celebrity spotting, apparently including Prince Charles. There is a beach along the eastern side of the marina but sadly this has been bought up by the Swissotel complex that reside there and is a private beach with a thirty five Euro entry fee, as you can imagine this has caused more than a little consternation among the locals who now have to travel to the nearby Gocek Island (10 TL by boat) to use the beach there. Inlice beach is a ten minute drive away on the other side of the mountain although the taxi fare is an extortionate 35 Turkish Lira better to pay the 2 Turkish lira and travel with the Dolmus.

Whilst in Göcek we stayed at the Tufan Pansiyon which was run by a very friendly family, we paid 20TL each for a very basic en-suite double with a balcony view over the harbour. Breakfast was available for an extra 5TL

Travelling by Dolmus in Turkey

2010-07-02T09:14:00.007+01:00

The humble Dolmuş (pronounced Dol-moosh) sometimes referred to as a shared taxi is the cheapest way to travel in Turkey, Dolmus buses vary from city to city sometimes a small minibus sometimes a converted transit van. They normally stick to a set route although I have known them to go off route to drop you off closer to you destination in Istanbul. Dolmuş stops are indicated by a blue bus stop style sign with a large white “D” on it in some areas in other areas there are no marked stops, however Dolmus buses will stop and pick up or drop off anywhere along their set route you just have to hail them like a taxi.

The sign in the front window of the Dolmuş usually indicates the route of the bus saying both the departure and destination point. It is generally accepted that the Dolmus never runs on time, and in fact the name Dolmuş translates as a taxi that doesn't start until its full (stuffed full) with passengers.

Once you have hailed the Dolmus take a seat and pass your money to the passengers in front who will pass it forward to the driver, the dolmus is cheap so use small coins and notes it will only irritate the driver if you pay with a 100 Turkish lira note, anyway its difficult to drive a bus, talk on a mobile and change up 100 TL for a 3 TL fare all at the same time.

The Dolmuş will almost certainly be crowded and the style of driving might be a little different then your used to, this can be particularly unnerving if you find yourself hurtling down mountain roads full of hairpin bends and sheer cliff drops to the sea whilst the driver chats a way to his brother on his mobile or has a conversation with someone at the back of the bus seeming to pay no attention to the road at all.

If you use the Dolmuş to get around as opposed to taxis you will save money. For example a Taxi drive from Olu Deniz to Hisaronu will cost about 20TL where as the dolmus will be just 3TL.

When riding the dolmus remember to do what it says on the bumper sticker “Panik Yapma” don't panic......

I found this rather comical video guide to catching the dolmus check it out it covers everything.

Poisonous creepy crawlies and snakes in Turkey

2010-05-21T13:05:00.006+01:00

People often ask me about this, are there any poisonous snakes in Turkey? Or do you have to worry about scorpions; it always makes me laugh as I get a mental image of some hapless British tourist with a knotted handkerchief on his head, lobster red suntan and union jack boxer shorts trying not to spill his beer whilst grappling with a giant man eating scorpion at the hotel bar like an outtake from Clash of the Titans. The short answer is yes Turkey does have some poisonous inhabitants but the chance of you coming across any of them is so negligible as to be almost nonexistent. I have travelled around Turkey and visited many times and have managed to spot a poisonous snake on just one occasion, which means I see more poisonous snakes in my hometown in the south of England (Adders) then I do in Turkey. Admittedly the one snake I saw in Turkey was a horned viper, considered to be the most dangerous snake found in Europe, which my mother in law almost trod on when we were visiting a Phrygian grave site near the Yazilikaya platform in Eskisehir province, but said horned viper turned tail and crawled in the opposite direction as fast as possible.

Most of the spiders in Turkey are again small and harmless; I have never seen a spider in Turkey that is even the quarter of the size of the domestic house spiders we get in England, that frequently attack you when you are sleeping. Of course a poke around the internet turned up a list of scary contenders including the world famous black widow, to read it click here: Venomous spiders of Turkey. I think it’s worth bearing in mind I have an extended Turkish family and many Turkish friends and have never heard a single story involving a spider bite.

Again I have never seen a Scorpion in Turkey, never heard of anyone who knows someone I know getting bitten by a scorpion in Turkey and don’t really think it’s something the average tourist needs to worry about. However Turkey does have some scorpions the scariest of which is Androctonus crassicauda which apparently translates as fat tailed man killer, how cute! Mostly they inhabit south east Turkey towards Syria and Iraq. If you want to freak yourself out more read this report by the Turkish parasite periodical:Scorpionism in the Sanliurfa Provinces of Turkey.

My advice is to ignore all that unnecessary scaremongering and chill out, the most irritating insect you are going to experience in Turkey are the mosquitoes......

Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia, Turkey

2010-04-19T11:39:00.011+01:00

The Ihlara valley is a stunning gorge cut in the volcanic rock of the Cappadocian plateau by a small river that runs through the centre. The valley is both breathtakingly beautiful and historically fascinating. Inhabited by monks from the 4th to the 14th centuries the valley is littered with ancient rock cut Byzantium churches and hermit holes. If you like walking and are interested in nature and history then The Ihlara valley is a must to add to your itinerary, the main route meanders along the
lightly wooded valley floor next to the river bed, as you make your way along there are signs on either side pointing to different rock cut churches you can explore, most of which are cut into the face of the valley side and are a bit of scrabble to reach. Many of the churches have frescoes some in very good condition some defaced, the churches vary greatly in condition there are over 60 in the valley, the most popular ones are:

Direkli Kilise (Column church)
Agacalti Kilise (Under tree church)
Yilanli Kilise (Snake church)
Named after a fresco featuring a snake with three heads.
Sümbüllü Kilise (Hyacinth church) Part of a monastry complex with a living area, named after the hyacinths outside.
Pürenli seki Kilise (Pine needle terrace church)
Kokar Kilise (Smelly church)
Karagedik Kilise (Black collar church)
Kirk damalti Kilise ( Forty sons in law church)
Features a fresco of St George slaying the dragon, in this case represented by a three headed snake.
Ala Kilise (Mottled church)
Kemerli Kilise (Archway Church)
Egritas Kilise (Crooked stone church)

The valley is 14km long and runs from Ihlara village to Selime village, if you are coming by car the Belisirma village in the middle of the valley has a car park and a tourist information centre. Also there are some tea houses serving light refreshments on wooden platforms that sit in the middle of the river offering a nice place to relax and watch the wildlife during your visit. The valley also supports some cottage industries and whilst there we saw some local boys harvesting the walnut trees, there are also pistachio trees and vineyards.

Getting There

From Goreme or Urgup it will take just over two hours or forty five minutes from Aksaray, like most of these attractions in Cappadocia the most popular way to visit is with an organised day trip, however for those of you feeling a little more adventurous it can be found by following the signposts from the main roads between Nevsehir and Aksaray or Nevsehir and Nidge. Remember to buy a map of the area before coming to Cappadocia as the local tourist maps are not to scale and can be a little confusing, and it is difficult to find standard maps outside of major cities in Turkey.
When we visited the Ihlara valley we got up early drove along the Nevsehir to Aksaray road so we could stop at the Agzikkarahan Caravanseri which was rather irritatingly closed, then took the road to Ihlara valley stopped for luch and spent about three and a half hours exploring the valley. After this we continued to visit the underground cities at Derinkuyu then Kaymakli which too us on a round trip back to our hotel at Urgup arriving back at sunset.

Thomson - Special Offers

Around Ihlara Valley

Derinkuyu underground city

Goreme

Kaymakli underground city

Pasabagi

Urgup

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Kaymakli Underground City

2010-04-04T16:28:00.008+01:00

Kaymaklı underground city differs from the one at Derinkuyu in that it is distinctly more haphazard and has a sense of being randomly cobbled together, I also found it a lot more claustrophobic, the chambers are chaotically laid out and considerably smaller then the ones at Derinkuyu but it also has more of a sense of being an underground city you can imagine the smell and the hustle and bustle of a large number of people living cramped together in this way. Archaeologists estimate that Kaymakli could house between 3500 and 5000 people something well worth reflecting on whilst you wander the narrow insanely claustrophobic tunnels.
Only the first four levels are currently open to visitors but there are eight levels that have been explored by archaeologists, whilst Kaymakli is not as deep as Derinkuyu it is considerably wider and to be honest after you explored the first few narrow low ceiling tunnels you will probably have lost any sense of depth or direction. Expect to see wine and oil presses, churches, stables, living areas and graves. If you are planning on visiting with children then keep them close as the chaotic nature of Kaymakli would make it easy to lose a child down a hole or up a dark tunnel.

Getting There
Kaymakli underground city is also located on the Nevsehir-Nigde road and is easy to find by car or motorcycle although most travellers come by bus tour. Follow the brown coloured signposts to Kaymakli yeralti sehir which translates as Kaymakli underground city.

Around Kaymakli underground city

Derinkuyu underground city

Goreme

Pasabagi

Urgup

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Istanbul 2010 - European Capital of Culture

2010-03-20T11:48:00.004Z

Istanbul is the European capital of culture for 2010, to quote the website "The European Capital of Culture is a city designated by the European Union for a period of one calendar year during which it is given a chance to showcase its cultural life and cultural development." What this means for anyone travelling to Istanbul this year is a year long program of special events and sprucing up of existing attractions in Istanbul. Including new exhibitions and museums, special events celebrating Turkish music and culture including a music festival and other live performance arts, exhibitions celebrating the countries history of visual arts and a map of guiding you to traditional arts and crafts centers of Istanbul. At the height of the summer there will be an Ottoman style imperial performance in Sultanahmet square involving fireworks, acrobats, wrestlers, riders, horse races and martial arts.
For more information about Istanbul as the European capital of culture for 2010 and a list of events see the website at Istanbul2010

Other articles about Istanbul

Basilica Cistern

Galata Tower, Istanbul

The Grand Bazaar

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Istanbul City Guide

Eminonu

Yunak Evleri hotel (Urgup, Cappadocia) review

2010-02-02T17:10:00.005Z

We stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel in Urgup, Cappadocia for a short break last summer and can whole heartedly recommend it. The hotel offers a selection of different cave rooms depending on your requirements, all decorated to a very high standard with high quality fixtures and fittings. We stayed in two different rooms both had a Jacuzzi, walk in shower, hardwood floors, heating, antique furniture, beautiful kilim rugs, CD player, CDs and a small collection of books about Turkish arts and culture in a selection of languages. Outside both rooms had a small terrace with table and chairs where you could relax and watch the sunset. The cave rooms are original 5th century dwellings that have been adapted. Reception is a beautiful 19th century Greek mansion that sits in the centre of the site with the cave rooms carved into surrounding valley side.
For breakfast they offer a buffet with a varied selection both continental and Turkish, all the staff where helpful, courteous and efficient. The hotel is only a ten minute walk from the town centre and is well located for a base from which to explore Cappadocia. The rooms were not cheap but this is a luxury hotel and the prices are on a par with other hotels offering similar standards in the area.

Around Yunak Evleri Cave Hotel

Derinkuyu underground city

Goreme

Pasabagi

Urgup

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Ürgüp Cappadocia

2010-01-31T12:24:00.007Z

Urgup is a picturesque little town about 20km from Nevsehir and a good location from which to explore Cappadocia. The accommodation in Urgup is a little bit more up market then the backpacker’s pensions you find in Goreme and is obviously targeting the more affluent. Many of the hotels feature cave room accommodation that has been decorated to a high standard, we stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel (Review here) and our cave room had the luxury of having a Jacuzzi. The old part of the town is full of old stone houses that remain from when the area was a Greek settlement, often with cave rooms. Most of the larger of these have been converted for use as classy pensions or hotels. Look out for the beautiful stone carvings and architectural features on some of the grander buildings that feature beautiful gated courtyards’ and decorations around arched doors and windows.

The town centre is small but functional with easy access to everything you need, bus station, bank, restaurants, pharmacy, car hire etc. Most of the centre is geared up towards the tourist trade and there are many gift shops and eateries that have that touristy look about them and a Haman that allows visiting men and women to bath together, which is not the norm for Turkey and rather bizarre in what is actually quite a religious area. If you walk northwest and up the hill bearing right there is a lookout point known as Temenni wishing hill that offers stunning views over the town and a photo gallery of old Ürgüp, there was also a terrace where you could sit and drink tea but due to a landslide just before we visited this has yet to be reinstated.

Eating out

There is quite a selection of restaurants aimed at tourists in Ürgüp so I’m going to recommend one that’s not,
we absolutely loved a restaurant called Ikinci bahar possibly not the sort of venue for a night out but the perfect place for eating in the day, they are doing a roaring local trade and the food was very reasonably priced, not to mention delicious certainly the best food we ate whilst travelling in Cappadocia. Also whilst in this area you have to try the local specialty kebab Testi kebab, which is slow cooked in a pottery urn which the waiter will bring to your table and literally beheaded with a sword.

Around Urgup

Goreme

Derinkuyu underground city

Pasabagi

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Paşabağı - Cappadocia

2009-10-31T12:49:00.010Z

These fairy chimneys in pasabagi are unique to this valley and feature bizarre large toadstool like caps which protect the rest of the chimney from erosion. The area was formerly a monastic retreat and used to be known as “monk’s valley” and features a rock cut church dedicated to St Simeon.

Pictured above is the rock cut St Simeon’s chapel.

Getting There
Pasabagi can be found on the road between Zelve open air museum and Goreme. There is no entry fee.

Around Paşabağı

Goreme

Derinkuyu underground city

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Shoestring Cave Pension - Göreme - Cappadocia

2009-10-28T10:46:00.004Z

The Shoestring Cave Pension in Göreme is a charming and friendly pension in the heart of Cappadocia it offers a selection of dormitory rooms, rooms with shared facilities and ensuite rooms from as little as six Euros per night. The room we stayed is was clean and functional as you would expect from a budget hotel. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly and has a very communal feel, in the evenings it is not unusual to find the staff and guest relaxing around the barbeque together swapping stories and sharing a glass or two of raki. Breakfast consist of a choice of various different things including gozleme(pancakes), omelettes and French toast. In the evening the BBQ cost 15 Turkish lira and is very reasonable. Upon arrival one of the staff members will put you through a sales pitch offering the various different tours on offer; if like us you are not interested to sit through this then should be no problem if you politely excuse yourself, which is what we did. I would particularly recommend this pension if part of the appeal of your trip is hanging out and meeting other travellers.

The pension offers a selection of tours including balloon tours, trekking tours, bus tours, horse riding tours, jeep safari tours and a whirling dervish ceremony.
click here for Shoestring Cave Pension website

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Göreme - Cappadocia

2009-10-28T08:51:00.007Z

Göreme is situated in central Turkey and forms part of the area informally known as Cappadocia. It is an area famous for its outlandish rock formations and fairy chimneys. Until recently Göreme was the name of the valley and the village was called Avcilar but for touristic reason the village also took the name Göreme. Unlike the other towns in the area Göreme is notable because the fairy chimneys and houses all blend into one making for an unusual and slightly bizarre looking town. In the mornings the sky above Goreme fills with hot air balloons as tourists and travellers get bird’s eye view of Göreme and the surrounding valleys. There is plenty to see in Göreme including the world famous Göreme open air museum and Göreme valley both listed as UNESCO world heritage sites, there are also so fascinating rock cut Byzantium churches. The town offers a charming combination of traditional village life combined with a tourist fuelled boom and cafe culture all set amongst the spires of the other worldly fairy pinnacles.

Göreme offers a large selection of hotels, inns and pensions (most of these offer cave rooms) and is particularly popular with budget travellers and backpackers. Whilst in Göreme we stayed in the ShoeString Cave Pension which I can thoroughly recommend click the link for a review.
Göreme Is a good place to use as a base to visit the rest of Cappadocia particularly if you like walking as it is a perfect base from which to explore the surrounding valleys. Goreme is also a perfect destination if you enjoy hanging out and meeting other travellers.

Getting There
The transit hubs in the area are Kayseri and Nevşehir, it is possible to fly to Kayseri although the majority of travellers come by bus. If travelling from the coast by bus be advised that some of these journeys can take an excruciating 13 hours, although it is well worth it in the end. Also it’s a good idea to check that your ticket includes a transfer to Göreme as many travellers have been stranded at Nevşehir otogar (bus station) although if you find yourself in this situation repeatedly requesting the free service to Göreme (serviş Göreme nerede or for the more lingually ambitious Göremeye servişleri nereden kalkar?) usually works and you will hopefully be bundled into a minibus to Göreme.

Derinkuyu underground city - Cappadocia

2009-10-22T12:57:00.012+01:00

Derinkuyu is probably the largest underground city in the area, so far 11 levels have been discovered, all this is thought to represent only 10% of the entire excavation which descends to an unnerving 85 meters underground. Derinkuyu has a surface area of 2000 square feet with a possible 7000 square feet in all if you include the possible extent of areas yet to excavated. Of the 11 levels discovered only 8 are currently open to tourists. The rooms and tunnels in Derinkuyu are comparatively big so if you’re worried about feeling claustrophobic I would recommend visiting this one as opposed to Kaymakli, all though most people still find the atmosphere oppressive and the feeling of being so far underground in a confined space unsettling. Unique to derinkuyu underground city are the large religious school with a high ceiling and rock carved seating area. There is also a winery, cruciform church, chapel, stables, refectory, oil press and a large 55 metre deep ventilation shaft which you can look up and down at various points in your visit to get a proper feeling of how far up or down you are!

Like most underground cities in Cappadocia, Derinkuyu was used as an underground fortress and features large round stone doors that can be used to seal all the entrances with small stab holes in the middle so the inhabitants could spear approaching intruders. Even though the complex can be completely locked down it is still well aired with over 52 air vents. The inhabitants also had access to running water and wells that are not connected to the surface to protect the water supply from being poisoned by attacking enemies. The exact dates of construction of Derinkuyu are still under debate with some historians citing the Hittites (1400BC) as the original builders whilst others point to the Phrygians (7th-8thBC) although it is known that they were used well into the Byzantine era by Christians fleeing persecution. The story goes that the underground city was re-discovered in 1963 when one of the locals in the above town of Derinkuyu demolished a wall in his house and unexpectedly found a room which led to another room and another going deeper underground, the city was opened as a tourist attraction in 1968.

Getting There

Most visitors to Derinkuyu end up coming with a bus tour however it is easy to find on your own by car/motorcycle, it is located on the road between Nevsehir and Nigde and is well signposted, once in Nevsehir follow the brown coloured signposts to Derinkuyu yeralti sehri (literally Derinkuyu underground city) you should be able to park for free, although expect to be harassed by people selling tourist tack on the walk from the car park to the entrance. Entrance fee is 15 Turkish lira although Turkish citizens would be better off buying a museum card for twenty Turkish lira as this allows access to most Turkish museums for free for a period of one year. Opening times are 9-5, allow at least an hour to look around. You can pay for a guide although we found it cheaper and less restraining to listen to other peoples guides as and when we felt like it.

Galata Tower - Istanbul

2009-08-14T12:59:00.005+01:00

The Galata Tower is one of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks, it dominates the landscape around Beyoğlu and the 10 Turkish lira entrance fee is well worth it as it offers breathtaking panoramic views of Istanbul. The Galata Tower is a nine storey building that is 66.9 meters tall and has walls that are 3.75 meters thick; there are two elevators that run to the top floor which contains a rather pricey restaurant. Once at the top you have to spend some time on the observation deck that runs around the tower. For the more adventurous it’s well worth walking back down the narrow stone stairs which snake their way around the building and offer some interesting peephole views both inside of and outside of the tower.

History

The Galata Tower was built by the Genoese in 1348 when this part of Istanbul was still a Genoese trading colony.
Originally it was called The Tower of Christ (Christea Turris) and was part of the fortifications protecting the Genoese citadel. The tower has had many uses over the years including being used as a prison, observatory, fire lookout and the launch point for the 17th century birdman Hezârfen Ahmed Çelebi who apparently achieved the first inter-continental flight (1630-1632) by jumping from the top of the tower wearing some artificial wings and gliding from the European side to the Asian side. Ironically in 1835 when the tower was being used as a fire lookout the Tower itself caught fire. The Tower was not completely restored until the 1960’s when it was commercialised and opened as a tourist attraction.

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Hagia Sophia - Istanbul

2009-06-17T12:26:00.007+01:00

One of Istanbul’s top attractions the Hagia Sophia known as Ayasofya in Turkish, originally built to be the greatest church in all of Christendom on the orders of Emperor Justinian in 532 AD.
It served as the largest cathedral in the world for over nine hundred years and is considered to be the finest surviving example of Byzantium architecture. The Hagia Sophia literally meaning “Holy Wisdom” remained as a church and the center of the eastern orthodox religion until 1453, when the city was invaded and conquered by Ottoman Turks. The building was then converted to a mosque at the behest of Sultan Memed ll. A lot of the Christian symbols and artefacts were removed or covered up. Bells, relics and alters were removed whilst mosaics where plastered over or stolen. The addition of minarets and a mimbar (Islamic pulpit) completed the conversion of the building into a mosque. The Hagia Sophia continued to be used as a mosque until 1935 when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk controversially ordered it be turned into a museum, the building had some of its Christian heritage restored and now represents and interesting combination of both Christian and Islamic religious practice. Fundamentalist in both religions still call for it to be returned to use as a church or mosque respectively.
Visiting the Hagia Sophia you will be immediately struck by the huge domed roof, which is quite an engineering feat for 6th century Byzantine, once inside the museum you can’t fail to notice the beautiful natural light and it’s not much of a push of the imagination to imagine how awe inspiring this building was 1500 years ago and why it was considered (and still is) one of the most important buildings in the world.

Getting there
The Hagia Sophia is in the middle of Istanbul’s historic centre in the sultanahmet area, on Yerebatan Caddesi. The peninsular is best travelled by the Eminönü- Zeytinburnu tram. The museum is situated next to the tramway and is easily identified by it terracotta hued walls, there is also a tourist information booth situated by the tramway. Other attractions nearby include The Blue Mosque, The Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace. The Grand Bazaar is just a four minute tram ride away.
There is an entrance fee but if you are travelling with Turks you may be able to blag it for free by speaking a little Turkish and claiming some sort of relation, as entrance is free to Turkish citizens.

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Istanbul - City of the World's Desire

2009-04-01T16:58:00.016+01:00

Istanbul without a doubt my most favourite city in the world, located in north western Turkey split in half by the Bosphorus, the straits that separate Europe from Asia. Not only is it the only City in the world to be situated in two continents simultaneously, but it is also one of the largest cities in Europe. The sheer scale of the city is at first intimidating and later impossible not to fall in love with, hence the reason I return every year. For most visitors your first glimpse of the city will be as your plane comes in over the Sea of Marmara, complete with seemingly motionless boats, once you sight land you notice the glittering minarets and tightly packed high rise blocks before touch down at the thoroughly modern Atatürk Airport. Once you venture out into the city you will be immediately struck by the hustle and bustle of life in Istanbul, the packed streets and noisy roads as twelve and a half million people go around their daily business.

Istanbul is not known as the “City of the World's Desire” without reason, it is almost impossible to imagine a city more magnificent, resting majestically on the seven hills of Istanbul with the Black Sea above and the Sea of Marmara below. Regardless of your reason for being there it is always a pleasure; just travelling from A to B is in itself an adventure as you try to soak up all the eye candy the city has to offer. Istanbul isn’t a city you can visit in just a couple of days there is a massive amount of things to do here so if you’re travelling on a limited timescale it might be an idea to read up on the city first and decide what you want to see, or face arriving and being entirely overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of things to see and do. As luck may have it a lot of the major tourist attractions are grouped together around the Golden Horn so if you’re staying in the city it might be advantageous to find a hotel around the Galata/Beyoğlu or Sultanahmet/ Eminönü districts.

Historical Attractions
It is easy to imagine the old city in all its Ottoman glory as much of it is still standing, and, with a push of the imagination you can imagine the city in Byzantium era as many historical gems from this era also remain. So what not to miss, most visitors head straight to Sultanahmet to see the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) something of a rarity built in 532 AD on the behest of Byzantine Emperor Justinian and considered the pinnacle of Byzantium architecture. It was the most important church in Christendom for 1000 years until 1453 when Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Turks and Sultan Mehmet II had it converted into a mosque, for almost five hundred years it continued in this role until Mustafa Kemal Atatürk ordered it to be converted into a museum in 1935. Right next door to Hagia Sophia you will find some of Istanbul’s other attraction such as The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), The Basilica Cistern and Topkapı Palace all within five minutes walk of each other. Don’t forget to head across the Galata Bridge to the Galata Tower with its stunning panoramic views of Istanbul. Obviously this list is not exhaustive, there is a wealth of history in and around Istanbul to jump in and explore these are just some of the most famous and popular ones, the old quarter of Istanbul is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Nightlife & Eateries
For me the night time in Istanbul has to start in Taksim Square (Beyoğlu District) the beating heart of modern Istanbul, in the centre of the square you will find the independence monument commemorating Atatürk the founder of the Turkish republic. From Taksim Square walk southwest down Istiklal Caddesi and you will find pedestrianised streets lined with bars, boutiques, cafes, consulates, restaurants, and an old restored Ottoman tram that services the area. The side streets are also lined with small bars known as meyhanes or tavernas offering a selection of live entertainment, in recent times rooftop bars have become popular with their semi open terraces and skyline views, if you can find one playing local folk or gypsy music even better as a bar full of strangers often ends up a bar full of dancing friends. The area really is east meets west with its heady mix of European and Asian culture and was in the past often referred to as the Paris of the East.
Lone male travellers are warned to be wary as it is known that there are a few scams that are used in this area to part you from your money, so best to politely avoid over friendly strangers that want to take you somewhere.

Getting Around
Travelling around Istanbul by public transport is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get around; free maps can be found when you arrive at the airport or at the tourist information centre in Sultanahmet. The public transport system consist of a selection of trams, buses, boats or the metro each time you travel on one you need to purchase a metal token (Jeton). To travel from Atatürk airport to Sultanahmet get the Metro from the airport to Zeytinburnu then get a tram to Sultanahmet, really simple and should cost less the 3YTL whereas airport transfers are normally about 30 Euros. Taxis in Istanbul are relatively cheap and mostly pretty trustworthy, although I prefer to find out a ballpark figure of the approximate tariff before I get in, it normally comes in cheaper then there estimations. Taxi drivers that want you to agree a fixed price first are probably trying to overcharge you, but if you are happy with the price then why mess around. A Dolmuş is a cheap shared taxi that takes 8 passengers, they drive along a set route, but will take minor detours to drop you off, they only leave once the dolmuş is full.

Shopping
Shoppers have been travelling to Istanbul for thousands of years, mostly to hit the covered streets of the Grand Bazaar which is a must for any enthusiastic shopper, although if you venture into the surrounding streets you will find many wholesale areas where there are bargains galore particularly if you’re buying in bulk. Get the tram down to sultanahmet to see the quaint shops in the Arasta Bazaar located behind the Blue Mosque, or continue on the tram to Eminönü and the old Spice Bazaar. Look out for local markets at Kadiköy & Ortaköy. For high end designer shops head to Nişantaşi. Most shops in Istanbul stay open until fairly late in the evening.

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Visiting the war museum at İnönü

2009-03-16T13:25:00.006Z

İnönü is a small township in Eskişehir Province, it was also the location of the İnönü headquarters building an important strategic centre in the two battles of İnönü, part of the Turkish War of independence. Recently the old Ottoman style İnönü headquarters building has been restored and turned into a war museum, so knowing this my wife and I decided to go and have a look one winter’s day. Arriving in İnönü it was easy to find İnönü, is small and the locals were friendly enough to give us directions, typically upon arrival at the museum we found it locked. It crossed my mind that it may have closed for lunch, so again we asked some locals who told us that it’s always locked and you have to get the key from the post office.

The post master looked absolutely baffled “you want the key for the museum? You do realise this is the post office?” After a few more locals were pulled into the confusion a debate ensued and after some time it was agreed we should go to the municipal building, another friendly local escorted us there.
Again utter bafflement, the security guard seemed nonplussed so again a debate was hastily arranged with the staff of the building discussing the next course of action and eventually we were ushered into an office and told to wait. After some time in the office I became bored my wife sat there patiently whilst I began to meander around looking at the maps on the wall and photos of officials shaking hands, eventually a middle aged suited man entered the room at which point I felt slightly uncomfortable as I was standing directly behind his desk.
I sat down hurriedly next my wife and the man sat behind his desk, he then completely destroyed any expectations I had by ignoring us completely and starting to sort through paperwork! What do we do interrupt? Get up and leave? After what seem like eternity the man looked across and enquired why we were sitting in his office, my wife explained that we would like to see the museum but that it was locked, the man let out a sigh and began to launch into a diatribe about how they spent a lot of money restoring the building but couldn’t afford to pay for a security guard to wait around all day in case of visitors, he preceded to mumble on about how it wasn’t his responsibility and he didn’t have time, asking my wife if she was a student or was there a busload of students outside. Of course there wasn’t so the man apologised that he couldn’t help us today, slowly as we made to leave he noticed that I wasn’t Turkish and asked where I was from, my wife in a quick twist replied that I had come all the way from England to see the İnönü War Museum. No Turk could refuse then, he became very hospitable and personally escorted us to the museum and then walked round with us standing a discreet distance the entire time. I later found out that he was the Mayor.

If you are interested in Mustafa Kemal Atatürk or the Turkish War of Independence then it is a very interesting if small museum.
Also in İnönü are some fantastic large cave dwellings that our carved into the cliffs that overlook the town and The İnönü hang glider and parachute camp founded by Atatürk in 1936.

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Side

2009-03-15T14:28:00.008Z

The Side(SEE-deh)peninsular is only about 1km long and 400m across but it’s packed full of interesting places to visit and flanked on either side by beautiful sandy beaches and the warm waters of the Mediterranean. On the peninsular you will find an interesting mix of old and new with modern nightclubs situated within the ruins of the ancient Side settlement.

Side (meaning pomegranate) is a highly successful resort town and it’s not hard to see why its perfect white sand beaches attract both international and domestic tourists. Around the pedestrianised peninsular there is a good selection of eateries, accommodation, bars, shops and lodgings. Side’s true success lies in its universal appeal achieving a little bit of something for everyone and also being suitable for families at the same time.
It is easy to lose a few days here just relaxing, meandering around the small backstreets exploring the boutiques, sipping iced cocktails on the beach staring over a glittering Mediterranean view, watching the sunset over the pillars of the Apollo temple then walking the illuminated ruins at night is certainly not to be missed. At the end of the peninsular there is a small but picture perfect harbour, water sports are available including boat cruises, parasailing, diving & snorkelling. Among Side’s impressive list of historical attractions are the ruins of the Hellenistic Amphitheatre, Roman Temples of Apollo and Artemis, The Aqua Ducts, The City Gates and a Museum of archaeology.
Side’s success as always has its downside as Side can become overly crowded in the high season particularly at the weekends.

History
The city was founded by settlers from North West Asia Minor (Turkey) in the 7TH century BC and quickly established itself as a centre of commerce, in 333 BC it was conquered by Alexander the great hence the Hellenistic influence. Later it fell under the control of the Ptolemaic dynasty then the Seleucid Empire, Side managed to remain relatively autonomous throughout this period and reached an economic peak in the 1st century BC when it became a centre of slave trading and a haven for Cilician pirates. In 78 BC the pirates were driven from Side by the Roman consul Servilius Vatia and Side came under the control of the Roman Empire it continued to be one of the most important slave trading harbours in the Mediterranean and its considerable commercial fleet still committed acts of piracy. Many of the ruins still visible in Side are from this period of History. In the fourth century Side was repeatedly invaded by raiders from the Taurus Mountains, this continued throughout the 5th and 6th century until Arab raider eventually burned and sacked the city in the 7th century. The city lay abandoned by the 10th century and was not re-inhabited until the 12th century when there was a considerable Jewish population; again the city was sacked, burned and abandoned. It was populated again in 1895 by Greek Muslim refugees from Crete.

Getting There
Side is approximately 65km east of Antalya Airport, a transfer will take about 50mins, alternatively car hire is readily available. It is also easy to get the bus from either Antalya or Alanya.

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Kaleiçi harbour – Antalya

2009-02-19T10:19:00.009Z

Kaleiçi is the old historic centre of Antalya built around a picturesque old Roman harbour, lined with restaurants & cafes. From the harbour a maze of narrow streets filled with restored Ottoman houses stretch upwards towards the walls of the once fortified old city. Exploring Kaleiçi you find a fantastic selection of boutiques, restaurants, pensions, medreses, hamams, ancient mosques, antiquated churches, Turkish rugs and some beautifully restored Ottoman style boutique hotels.The courtyards and streets are lined with palm fronds and fine fruit trees under which you will often find a man shading from the sun who will polish your shoes for a small price.The winding streets and hidden courtyards of Kaleiçi will quickly have those of a curious nature peeking and peering into private gardens, windows and speculating on the price of doing your own restoration.
Kaleiçi is a protected area and was awarded the Golden Apple of Tourism in 1984,you will still see the odd dilapidated Ottoman house but most of these are being rapidly restored by the local Kaleiçi restoration association.
Down by the harbour there is a small but beautiful beach surrounded by cliffs that you can access by steps through the restaurant for a small charge. The old harbour is a nice relaxing place to take an evening stroll and you will have no difficulty in finding a nice restaurant or bar to pass the time in.

Once close to the dockside the touts will be there calling to see if you are interested to go for a boat trip the next day,my advice is to book one, it’s a extremely nice way to spend the day, food is included in the price and you will usually get to see one of the areas of local interest from the sea (waterfalls, secluded beaches or tidal caves) last time I went we explored the tidal caves to the west of Antalya. There will also be plenty of time to dive from the boat, swim and sunbathe. When booking a boat trip always compare the prices with other touts and always haggle, the Turks pay half the price of the tourist so with a bit of gentle persuasion you should be able to get a better price.

Staying in Kaleiçi
I would thoroughly recommend staying in Kaleiçi if you are booking a holiday in Antalya; there is a good range of boutique hotels and pensions from the moderately priced to the luxurious. You also get to savour the old style atmosphere away from the hustle and bustle of modern Antalya, there is a wide variety of restaurants in easy walking distance and you are in the centre of the city so everything is easily accessible. However if you are travelling with children you may want to consider one of the more family orientated resorts.

Nightlife
For those wanting a bit more dancing in your night life there is a superb open air nightclub in the northern side of Kaleiçi that overlooks the harbour, complete with girls in hot-pants dancing on podiums, toilet attendants with exotic perfumes, laser light show and a chill out area overlooking the Mediterranean. Although be aware that single men will be approached by Natasha’s plying their trade, literally if you are with you girlfriend and she goes to toilet they’re there two seconds later asking if you would like to buy them a drink, probably best to say no unless you fancy explaining to the misses why you are drinking with a Russian working girl that looks like a model. The entrance to the club is up the hill in the maze of streets.

History
There is no exact date for how long Kaleiçi has been inhabited but it is said to have been founded by Attalos II king of Pergamum approximately 150 BC. The story goes that Attalos sent his subordinates out carrying the following orders ‘Find a place that should be the envy of all kings and princes, a place to draw all eyes. Discover paradise for me.’ Upon finding what is now Kaleiçi word was sent back to the King who declared it as heaven on Earth. He then founded the city naming it naming it Attalia (although archaeological remains suggest inhabitance in the third century BC) after himself. The city became a Roman city after the death of Attalos III who bequeathed the Pergamum Empire to Rome in his will. The city prospered as a center of trade and naval activity under roman rule, and is mentioned in the book of Acts due to a visit by St Paul (Acts 14:25 And when they had preached the word in Perga, they went down into Attalia, and thence sailed to Antioch.)
The Seljuk Turks took the city from the Byzantium Empire in the 13th century under Turkish rule the city continued to prosper, and was divided into different walled area’s partitioned by race and religion, Kaleiçi was divided into a Greek quarter, Armenian quarter, Jewish quarter and the King and his Mamluks, the rest of the Muslims lived in the main city. The gates between quarters were locked at night. Surrounding the entire city were thick stone walls said to extend into the sea accessed by fortified gates, a fine example of these gates is Hadrian's Gate (Hadriyanüs Kapisi)a large tripe arched gateway into Kaleiçi where you can still see the grooves in the pavement carved in the stone by the passing of many carts.

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The ruins of Troy – Çannakale

2009-02-05T10:45:00.005Z

The ruins of Troy (referred to by one writer as the ruins of ruins) are not going to be the most impressive archaeological site you will have the opportunity to see in your time in Turkey. However they will be one of the oldest, and their immortalisation by Homer accounts for a lot of interest.
The site is actually much more than just the ruins of Troy (Truia, Truva) in the location are the archaeological remains of 9 cities all layered one on top of the other, this in itself makes it all but impossible to get a proper feeling about how any of these cities would have looked because all the ruins are intermingled with each other. The first excavation of Troy in 1870 was carried out by a German called H. Schlieman, sadly his obsession with discovering the Troy of Homer’s Iliad and the treasures of King Priam were to prove destructive and much of the archaeological evidence on the upper layers was destroyed, lost and looted. However up until this point the Homeric Troy was largely considered to be legend so Schlieman’s excavation did have the benefit of bringing to the limelight historical evidence for one of the world’s oldest civilisations. The various different cities on the Troy site existed between 3000 BC and 1 BC, Homer’s Troy is said to be Troy VII (1300–1190 BC) and bears evidence of being destroyed by war. In 1998 the archaeological site of Troy was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Facilities: At Troy you will also find a shop, museum, toilet facilities and a giant wooden horse that children enjoy climbing inside.

Getting there: The ruins are located near Çannakale the easiest way to get there is by car, bus or dolmuş if you are travelling south towards Izmir they are just of the main road on the right hand side. It is possible to get an arduous day trip from Istanbul but not recommended, you would be better off staying a night in Çannakale and spending some time exploring Gallipoli and Troy from there.

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Çanakkale

2009-01-30T15:26:00.006Z

Çanakkale (pot fortress) is a small seaside town in the Çanakkale province; the town is located on the Asian side of the Dardanelles straits that connect the Sea of Marmara to the Aegean. Çanakkale's most famous landmark is the nearby ruined city of Troy (Truva) because of this you will see a large wooden horse as you walk along the promenade originally used for the film version of Troy and later donated to the town.The promenade is pleasant for a stroll and there are many cafes and restaurants in which you can sit and watch nautical traffic meandering up and down the Dardanelles, which is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world. The Dardanelles straits have always been of huge strategic importance as it provides the only access to the black sea. You can get frequent ferries from Çanakkale to the Gallipoli peninsular (Gelibolu) on the opposite side of the straits, the site of the tragic battle of Gallipoli in WWI. The town’s hotels fill up around April the 25th every year with veterans and the descendents of veterans from Australia and New Zealand coming to pay their respects on Anzac day at the Anzac Commemorative Site.

In Çanakkale you will also find Çanakkale Marina with moorings and 24 hour attendant, a small museum and an acceptable amount of adequate hotels, although remember to book early if going around or for ANZAC Day. There is also a military base towards the north of the town so try not to irritate the guards by taking photos.

Getting there: As usual it is possible to catch a bus from the otogar (bus station) in Istanbul on a fairly regular basis, sea buses are also available from Istanbul. Hiring a car and driving up and down the Aegean coast can be a nice way to see the area.
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A light Snack at Eminönü quayside

2009-01-26T12:37:00.002Z

Without doubt the one thing you should not miss on any trip to Istanbul is the opportunity to grab a bite to eat as Eminönü quayside. The quayside & the adjacent Galata bridge is lined with anglers catching fresh fish which is quickly grilled and sold by the vendors who have parked their barbecues in a line behind the anglers. The grilled fish is served in a crusty bread roll with a little salad and is very reasonably priced. Unless you eat it raw this is about as fresh as fresh fish can get. You may have to stand as it’s often difficult to find a seat amongst all the hustle and bustle, but it’s normally easy enough to find a comfortable place to lean. If fish is not your thing there is also a kiosk there that sells the most fantastic to die for doner kebab in a bread roll with salad, the kiosk has some plastic tables and chairs so there is even an opportunity to eat sitting down. For those who want to take their time and eat in a more relaxing environment the base of the Galata bridge is full on both sides of balik evi (fish house) restaurants, although the touts on the outside trying to beckon you in are some of the most persistent and irritating I have come across. Once inside you will find the majority of these restaurants more than adequate.

Useful Turkish:
Grilled fish: Izgara balik
Doner in bread: Doner ekmek
Fish sandwich: Balik ekmek

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The Basilica Cistern - Istanbul

2009-01-23T13:45:00.004Z

The Basilica Cistern (known in Turkish as Yerebatan Sarnıcı or sunken cistern) is located near the Hagia Sophia in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul. It is a popular tourist destination but is easy to miss due to its underground location. However we found it fairly easily due to the tout who kindly showed us the entrance, albeit after he took us to his leather warehouse and showed us some jackets whilst we imbibed in some free apple tea. Once there we paid 10 YTL entrance fee and then descended the steps into the darkness. The Basilica Cistern is sometimes referred to as The Sunken Palace and it’s easy to see why. As you walk down the stairs you will see a large reservoir stretching further than you can see in the darkness, between the water and the ceiling there is a forest of 336 30ft high marble columns stretching up to a brick made domed ceiling, the columns are arranged in 12 rows each 28 columns long. The air is cool and damp (perfect respite from the hot sun outside) and each column has an up lighter making for an unusual and slightly spooky atmosphere. A wooden walkway has been constructed allowing you to stroll around the underground cavern with the other tourists, who all talk in hushed voices and lean over railings to look at the water which is teaming with carp. As you come to the exit there is a small stage which is apparently sometimes used for musical events (which must be very atmospheric) or artistic exhibitions.

History
The Basilica Cistern was constructed at the behest of The Emperor Justinianus in 542AD after the great Basilica that formerly stood on the spot was destroyed in Nika rebellion in 532AD. It was designed to supply water to Great Palace of Constantinople and fed by two aqueducts. Seven thousand slaves took part in the construction of the 105,000 sq ft Cistern, which has the capacity to store 100.000 tons of water. In the northwest corner of the cistern are two carved medusa heads that have been used as column bases. They are thought to be late Roman origin; mysteriously one is place upside-down and the other on its side. The cistern has been restored both in the 18th and 19th century. The cistern was also famously used in the 1963 James Bond film “From Russia with Love” when Mr Bond comically uses a periscope hidden in the cistern to spy on the Soviet embassy.

Getting There
The best way to travel the area is via Eminönü- Zeytinburnu tram, the entrance is near the tram lines on the opposite side to the Hagia Sophia museum on Yerebatan Caddesi. If you want a map and directions of the area there is a tourist information office right next to the tramway.

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Sivrihisar

2009-01-21T14:37:00.008Z

Sivrihisar (meaning pointed castle) is a charming little town in Eskişehir Province, the name is derived from the ruins of Sivrihisar castle and the pointed rocky granite hills that surround the town on three sides.The town has a long history and has been occupied by the Hittites, Phrygians, Seljuks and Ottomans.
Sivrihisar has many beautiful (and some decaying) Ottoman houses and haphazard twisty roads. Like many other parts of Eskişehir Province recent times have allowed for some renovations so some of the Ottoman house have been recently restored to very high standard.
The town is quiet and has an air of sleepiness about it as if no one is in much of a hurry, the centre usually has a few locals hanging around swopping pleasantries who are likely to show friendly curiosity in any visiting strangers. Sivrihisar is famed for its beautiful kilim rugs although you are unlikely to be able to buy one in the town, although I understand it is possible to buy new ones in one of the nearby villages. Sivrihisar is also famous for the folk legend Nasrettin Hoca, born in the Hortu village (part of Sivrihisar District). Nasrettin Hoca was a 13th century sufi famous for his biting tongue and satirical style, his stories often include a moral wrapped in a joke and are normally subject to multiple interpretations. He is often depicted riding his donkeys backwards.

One day Nasreddin Hodja got on his donkey the wrong way, facing towards the back.
- Hodja the people said, you are sitting on your donkey backwards!
- No, he replied. It's not that I am sitting on the donkey backwards, the donkeys facing the wrong way.

Nasrettin sat on a river bank when someone shouted to him from the opposite side:
- "Hey! how do I get to the other side?"
- "You are on the other side!" Nasrettin shouted back.

In the centre of town you will find the 13th century Ulu Mosque a rare and beautiful example of an early wooden mosque built in 1274 by the Seljuk emir Mikail bin Abdullah, the roof is held up by many wooden pillars and there is an intricately carved walnut pulpit considered to be one of the best surviving examples of its kind.
Also in Sivrihisar you can find an old derelict Armenian Church Kızıl Kilise (the Red Church), that has at some point been used as a factory it has an eerie nature partly due to the state of decay and partly due to a large brick wall that divides it in two, one side of the wall has been used as a factory and is full of decaying machinery this can be accessed through the front door, the other side which has been left empty can be accessed through a hidden tunnel in the house (possibly the old rectory) attached to the side of the church.
On the side of one of the hills is an old hamam that can be easily reached in a short 20min walk, from here you can see views across the town and the surrounding area.

Getting There: The main access to Sivrihisar would be by road, it is located on the E90 the road linking Eskişehir and Ankara.

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Midas City the Yazılıkaya Platform

2009-01-15T14:21:00.001Z

The Yazılıkaya Platform also known as Midas city is in the county of Eskişehir in the Yazılıkaya (written rock) village, maps of the area marked with all the areas of cultural and historical interest in Eskişehir are available at the Eskişehir tourist information centre. The Yazılıkaya platform was first occupied by man in the early Bronze Age, there are considerable archaeological remains from the Hittite period and the whole platform is like a preserved Phrygian settlement. The Phrygians occupied the area after the decline of the Hittite empire and the Yazılıkaya Platform is thought to be the 7th century BC religious centre of the Phrygian culture. On the site there are approximately 33 ruins from the Phrygian period including the Midas monument (a monument built to the goddess Cybele at the behest of King Midas), Phrygian rock tombs, altars, ancient roads, fountains, gigantic underground cisterns, rock thrones, Phrygian monuments, inscriptions and a massive stone fortress.
The Midas monument at a height of 17 meters is considered one of the most important stone monuments in the world, as is the equally high Unfinished Monument, which gives an indication of how work on these monuments were carried out(from top to bottom). Both monuments are covered in Phrygian inscriptions. The Yazılıkaya Platform has been suggested for inclusion in ‘world cultural and natural heritage list’. The Platform is beautiful and fascinating; we took a picnic and spent half day walking around soaking up the atmosphere.

Getting there: The easiest way to see the area is by car, as it is quite out of the way, this will also give you the opportunity to stop at some of the other sites of historical interest that surround the area. Don’t be afraid to stop and ask direction as the people in the surrounding villages are very helpful. Also bear in mind that there are no services whatsoever so bring food and drink with you. If you are planning on taking children you should keep them close and if possible leashed at all times as there are sudden 30ft holes in the ground to cisterns and cliffs to fall down.

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Eskişehir

2009-01-15T10:37:00.000Z

Eskişehir (meaning old city) is located on the banks of the river Porsuk in north-western Turkey in Eskişehir province on the main road and rail route between Ankara and Istanbul. Eskişehir is currently largely ignored by western tourists (although has a thriving tourist industry of visitors coming from the east) presumably due to its landlocked location and sometimes harsh climatical conditions. However Eskişehir is truly one of the gems of central Turkey, the city itself is very modern and beautiful and offers a range of eateries, shopping destinations, Turkish baths, nargile houses, museums and Ottoman architecture. The two universities give the cosmopolitan city a lively and youthful vibe; it’s a fantastic destination for foodies as the quality of the restaurants here is very high. The city has a few local delicacies including helva, boza and my personal favourite çiğ börek, a fine pastry mixture filled with ground meat, spices and onions then pan fried in hot oil and chased down with a glass of ayran, perfect!
In recent years Eskişehir has been rapidly modernising and every time I return there are more improvements such as the relatively new tram system and the parks popping up left right and centre, one of which has an artificial beach complete with sun loungers and changing cabins, which has been constructed on a small part of the redirected river Porsuk. The bath houses of Eskişehir are famous due to the hot drinkable spring water that is reported to cure, or ease many aliments. The city has a long history of “thermal tourism” whereby people have travelled specifically to experience the waters curative properties.
Near the centre of the city you will also find the Odunpazari quarter with its charming traditional Turkish architecture and old Ottoman style buildings. Outside the city in Eskişehir province you can’t take a step without tripping over some fantastically interesting historical goodies be it the recently restored headquarters of the Turkish war of independence at İnönü or any of the countless Phrygian, Hittite, Assyrian and Roman settlements including the tomb of king Midas and the village of Nasreddin Hoca. The area around Eskişehir is literally teeming with areas of archaeological and historical interest.

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The Grand Bazaar-Istanbul

2009-01-08T17:00:00.000Z

The Grand Bazaar (or covered bazaar known as Kapaliçarsi in Turkish) is an experience not to be missed it is comprised of 58 streets incorporating about 4,000 shops. The Grand Bazaar was built over many centuries and the end result is a kind of gigantic, beautiful and overwhelming shopping labyrinth. The Bazaar caters for both tourists and locals so you will find a good mix of authentic goods squeezed in between the stuff that’s really just for tourists, there are also plenty of eateries and it can be a fascinating place to sit and enjoy a cup of çay for anyone that’s into people watching.
There are four main entrances to the Bazaar and plenty of smaller ones but it matters very little because once inside you will almost certainly become lost, my advice is to just relax and enjoy the atmosphere and shopping, eventually you will come across another exit and it’s always easier to work out where you are on the outside than the inside. Asking the locals for directions can often be quite fruitless as they will not want to disappoint you and will politely direct you to where they think the nearest exit is, but the chances are unless they work in the Bazaar they are probably as lost as you, it’s all part of the experience. As is haggling, haggling is compulsory (or at least traditional) in almost every shop in the Bazaar; my Turkish mother-in-law will even haggle down the price of a cup of çay if she thinks it’s expensive. Again treat haggling as part of the experience its good fun once you get the hang of it.
Inside the bazaar you will find an overwhelming selection of goods that you might like to purchase; Persian carpets, Turkish kilims, intricately handmade highly ornate gold and silver jewellery, antiques, ceramics, leather goods, olive oil soaps, copperware, meerschaum pipes and a wide array of decorative items the list is endless, the bazaar truly is a shopper’s paradise. Whatever you decide to buy it’s always best to shop around if you want to get the best price. Whilst there beware of pickpockets or bag slashers, just like any other crowded place if you pay reasonable attention you should be fine.

Getting there:Avoid taxis because it is slap bang in the middle of a massive one way system and some of the roads are tram only (not that the taxi drivers pay much attention to this), in fact the tram that runs between Zeytinburnu and Sultanahmet is probably the easiest way to get there although if you’re in the Eminönü/Sultanahmet area its quite a pleasant walk. Don’t forget that the bazaar is closed on Sundays.

History: The Bazaar was originally constructed in 1461 at the behest of Mehmet II and consisted of the İç bedesten(large domed warehouse), Suleyman I had the Sandal Bedesten built to cope with rapidly growing fabrics trade in the 16th century. It appears it then grew unintentionally as the surrounding neighbourhood streets were covered effectively incorporating them into The Bazaar. It was the centre of trade throughout the Ottoman period, and is considered to be the largest and oldest bazaar in the world. Traditionally The Bazaar was split into sections whereby similar trades would generally trade together (a tradition you will find in the older parts of most Turkish city centres) this is reflected in street names like Fesciler Caddesi (Fez maker Street).The Bazaar was restored after the 1894 earthquake. Areas not to be missed in The Bazaar are the two bedesten, particularly the İç bedesten which is one of the original domed buildings from the 15th century; most visitors will also be struck by the architecture, beautiful pillared streets and high ceilings with attractive tiling. Basically the whole bazaar is a classically beautiful example of Ottoman architecture.

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